We had planned on
staying at one of the RV spots at Flamingo Campground in the National
Park. We called ahead & found out
that only dry camping was available & decided to stay in a commercial RV
park for three nights in Homestead ,
FL. Upon arrival we discovered half the campers
were Quebecers & half were Latino - do you speak French or Spanish?
After setting up
camp, Dan did internet research & we headed to Marios Family Restaurant for
Cuban food. We had Spanish bean soup,
croquette, fried green plantains w/garlic sauce, congris, yuca, filletillo
churrasco, & pan con bistec; highly recommended! From there we tried to shop at Walmart - the
store was way too busy. So we just
fueled the Toad & headed back to the RV thru more bad traffic.
Sunday morning it
was off to Everglades National Park to arrive at the Ernest F. Coe Visitor
Center right as it
opened. As at all National Parks there
were displays on the Park & an informational video about the park (this one
award winning). Next stop was Royal Palm
center to catch the 1030 AM Ranger led Anhinga Amble. First thing we noticed several parked cars
with blue tarps (think FEMA tarp) covering them? We soon discovered that the numerous
vultures/buzzards are known to "attack" any black rubber trim on
vehicles! The Anhinga Amble was
fantastic. Dan knew it would be great
when he learned the docent was a retired Coast Guard officer (Leon Howell) with
a ponytail & had been stationed in Grand Isle!!!
After the Amble we
left the park for lunch at the Gator Grill where you can get gator burgers, gator
tacos, gator wraps, etc. We stuck to
some excellent soup. On the way back to
the park we almost collided w/three ATVs traveling at high speed coming at us
in our lane. Turns out illegal use of
ATVs is a big problem on this side of the park because the open area &
minimal law enforcement. In fact, in the
afternoon we saw dozens of ATVs being unloaded from trailers & pick-ups -
many already being raced up & down the road & beside the road.
Back at Royal Palm
we walked the Gumbo Limbo Trail before joining the docent led tour of the Nike
Missile Battery located in the middle of the park. Another excellent event. Half the tour is a "history lesson"
starting w/the Yalta Conference, progressing thru Berlin
blockade, Russia getting the
A-bomb, U-2 incident, Bay of Pigs , &
ending w/the Cuban Missile Crisis. Turns
out until the Crisis there were no plans for Nike missile defensive except for
northern states & Alaska . Within weeks after the Crisis temporary
batteries were deployed to southern Florida ,
until permanent installations could be built. Since this battery was located within a
National Park, it still is basically intact after it was decommissioned in 1979.
Monday, 20JAN, morning
we headed to the Shark Valley Visitor
Center located in the northeast corner
of the Everglades
National Park . We had wanted to reserve seats for the two
hour tram ride with a naturalist docent but they were all booked & only
walk-up seats were available. Luckily
the 10AM Tram was not full & we got seats.
Note - if you ever
go to the Everglades
National Park make sure
you go on earliest tours available if you want to see wildlife!!! This is because it is cooler in the morning
& most animals will seek shade as it heats up; & cause of the "coolness"
they move slower as they warm up. Birds
may even be stationary w/their wings outstretched to heat up. Most importantly many tourists start showing
up after 10AM or later. When we left the
center at noon the place was mobbed w/no parking left & people hiking in
from the main road. Many people were
very upset that there were no walk-up seats available on any of the trams. The situation was made worse because it was a
long weekend w/free admission to all National Parks.
Lunch was at Miccosuccee
Cafe, then it was back to the RV. The
Miccosuccee say they are one of two remaining Native Americans in the Everglades (the other being Seminoles). But we were told on occasion that the
Miccosuccee are Seminoles, but with some sort of political difference? In our RV'ing we have tried several Native
American eating establishments & we have always been disappointed. We never get "native" cuisine. Note - fry bread is not true Native American
cuisine! It was what they created when
they were forced to reservations & provided with surplus food by the
government (ie wheat, flour, butter, etc).
The Miccosuccee was also a disappointment. In fact their menu pride fully announces
their favorite foods as burgers, fries, grits & soft drinks?
Tuesday morning we
(ie Dan) decided to head to the Flamingo Campground. This campground is one of the few in the
National Park Service that has dedicated RV spots, some with electricity. There is a reservation system for these
spots, but it is booked months in advance.
However the Park Service sets aside some for first come/first served so
we were keeping our fingers crossed for electricity. Driving there was in the rain & our dash
defroster didn't work even though most of the AC was replaced last month in Houma , LA. Every time we drive lately it seems to be in
the rain & we need the system to work.
So Dan called Lazy Days in Tampa
& made an appointment to trouble shoot the system next week.
Unfortunately we
could only get dry camping in Flamingo: but since a cold front was forecasted
for next few days electricity for AC wouldn't be an issue. We can use propane if necessary for heat. After setting up camp we were very surprised
to discover our house batteries were almost "dead". In fact they wouldn't even start the
generator! We restarted the RV so we
could start the generator & charge batteries.
Then we headed to
the Flaming Visitor Center
for lunch & to sign up for Ranger led activities. The first activity was a nature walk at
1:30PM. The rain was supposed to clear;
unfortunately the rain returned & the four of us on the walk gave up after
a half an hour:( We then returned to the
RV hoping the rain would stop, it did not!
Even though we ran the generator for over two hours, the house batteries
were once again dead by the morning.
Wednesday morning we
drove to Nine Mile Pond for the 8AM canoe paddle led by a Ranger. This is another great free activity in the
National Park Service - in fact they provide canoes, paddles, seat cushions
& life jackets! We assumed the
canoeing would be on open water but most it was through mangrove clusters. Which meant many hard turns in very tight
quarters(you actually had to duck to get through some of the mangrove tunnels). As a result there many collisions with mangrove
roots & other canoeists. Tempers
warmed-up every now & then, but it was an enjoyable three hours on the
water. One of the other canoeists
mentioned that at another National Park the couples were encouraged to paddle
w/someone other than their partner & it was less stressful?
We wanted to
participate in other Ranger led activities but Dan needed to address our house
battery issue. He spent a couple of
hours disconnecting the four batteries & cleaning each terminal & each cable
connection. You would think with four
batteries there would only be eight cables (two for each battery). But because there are multiple electric loads
& the generator, there were fourteen different connecting cables. Dan did find signs of corrosion & cable
wastage, he cleaned the terminals & connections the best he could trying
not to damage/break the wasted cable connections.
Meanwhile Corrie
went to take a shower but discovered no hot water. Turns out all the other camp grounds have
solar heated water but not the RV section?
After successfully taking hot showers it was off to the shoreline for a
walkabout with Gumbo. No one felt like
cooking dinner so we got take-out from the cafe at the Flamingo Visitor
Center .
Thursday morning,
23JAN, we awoke to find the house batteries dead once again, looks like we will
be buying four new house batteries soon.
After breaking camp we hit the road for the last visitor center in the Everglades National Park
- Gulf Coast
Visitor Center
located in Everglades City ,
FL. During the drive we discovered that the now
dash heating system doesn't work!
Most of our drive
was due west on state road 41 (aka Tamiami Trail). This is a very beautiful drive but
unfortunately the road is one of the biggest problems for the National
Park. When it was built no one realized
they were building a "dam" basically extending across Florida from the Gulf of Mexico to Miami
depriving the Everglades of vital water from Lake Okeechobee .
Trivia - what does
Tamiami mean?
During our drive we
stopped at the Oasis Visitor Center
& the Big Cypress Swamp
Visitor Center ,
both part of the Big Cypress National Preserve.
At the Big
Cypress Swamp
Visitor Center
we saw several manatees, unfortunately Dan couldn't capture on film as they
surfaced to breath.
Our RV park was
located on Cokoloskee Island definitely at the end of the road, & a small
coastal town Florida . As we often find in small towns at the end of
the road, they often have unique personalities; & Cokoloskee Island
does. Then it was off to the Gulf Coast Visitor Center
for Everglades National Park . Returning to the RV we stopped at City
Seafood Market & Restaurant for a snack of stone crab claws. Back at the RV we walked down to the RV
park's to watch the sunset.
Friday morning,
24JAN, we discovered that our major credit card was now wrapped-up in the
Target problem. So now we have a block
on our card & await the arrival of our new card. Since it was a little windy we decided rather
than go on a boat tour we would use the Toad to drive some of the dirt roads in
the Big Cypress National Preserve.
We were driving on
Birdon Road for about twenty minutes when lo-and-behold we had a full grown
Florida Panther walk across the road about a quarter mile in front of us!!! Although
we were not terribly close we could tell from the profile that it was a definitely
a rare Florida Panther. We slowly drove
up to the spot on the road that we thought it had traveled but it had already
disappeared into the underbrush. While
it was not an up close & personal look, we were more excited at having
glimpsed it in the wild than any animal we ever saw in a zoo:)
After driving the
Birdon & Turner River Roads we then went to the Loop Road . Which we drove half of before heading to the Big Cypress
Swamp Welcome
Center to report the
panther. The Ranger was glad we reported
it & had us feel out a wildlife sighting card for their database. While there we finally purchased some
souvenirs to support the National Park Association. PS - a week later we got a follow-up e-mail
about our panther sighting.
When we got back to Everglades City we stopped by the Havana Cafe for
lunch. This small cafe is only open for
breakfast & lunch (except for dinner on Friday & Saturday), but
apparently people come from Naples & Fort Myers, FL, to eat here. We don't know about breakfast, but lunch was
outstanding!
Saturday morning,
25JAN, we drove to the Kirby
Storter Roadside
Park in the Big Cypress
National Preserve to catch the 10AM Ranger led nature walk. As we waited for the group to arrive we were having
second thoughts about the "walk".
The walk is on a half mile long boardwalk that dead ends. The start of the walk surrounded by saw grass
"prairie" & although the saw grass prairie is vital to the
everglades & the wildlife's survival, its not that scenic after you have
seen it everyday for over a week. But we
went on the tour & we are glad we did!
Turns out the
elevation of the ground drops a little over a foot by the end of the
boardwalk. This apparently small change
in elevation results in varying lengths of "wetness" & four distinct
environments. The front of the boardwalk
is dry eight months of year & is saw grass prairie; by the end of boardwalk
is wet all year & is a cypress swamp.
After the tour we
headed to the town Marco
Island for a walk about
& lunch. Apparently Marco Island
was a sleepy little coastal Florida
fishing town not too long ago. Unfortunately
very little of it can be found among the high rise condos, boutiques, &
golf courses. On the way back to the RV
we stopped at the Fakahatchee Indian Gift Shop.
They had some very nice items but took cash only & there was no ATM
available?
Upon return to the
RV Dan visited the Smallwood Store & Museum located at the very end of Chokoloskee Island .
Established in 1906, as their website states: "On the
western edge of the Everglades and deep in the heart of
the 10,000 Islands, Chokoloskee
Island has been called
one of Florida 's
last frontiers. Here at Historic Smallwood Store you will
learn the story of the pioneers and settlers who tamed this vast wilderness."
Sunday morning we
headed to the Everglades National Park "Gulf Coast Visitor Center "
to take a boat tour. There are two tours
available from the concessionaire; a small boat into the mangroves, or a large
catamaran into the area of the Park called the Ten Thousand Islands. We opted for the large boat having canoed thru
the mangroves at Flamingo. Our tour was
not the one to take if you want to lots of wildlife up close; you won't see any
mammals or gators, & most birds will be in the distance. But we did see one mammal (dolphins) & a
large flock of white pelicans; for us the catamaran tour was the best choice.
After returning to
the RV Corrie decided to take a break, while Dan & Gumbo headed to Fakahatchee Strand
Preserve State
Park to see one of the few remaining old growth Cypress trees. Finding the park was easy, unfortunately
there were no clear directions on finding the Cypress trees. Dan & Gumbo ended up doing some serious
dirt (& sand) road driving for two hours without a map (thank goodness for
GPS). After successfully returning to
the RV, it was time to start preparing the RV for tomorrow's departure.