grandson jaxson

grandson jaxson
grandson jaxson

granddaughter coraline

granddaughter coraline
granddaughter coraline

grandson mason

grandson mason
grandson mason

Monday, June 29, 2015

26/27JUN15 - Denali National Park, AK

Friday, 26JUN, after fueling up we headed to our next RV park next door to Denali National Park.  After setting up camp we headed to the park arriving just in time to catch their excellent film at their visitor center.   Then we checked out their educational exhibits, before a very interesting Ranger presentation on the rodents of Denali.  Then we jumped on a park bus to catch the Ranger sled dog presentation at the park’s kennels. This is a fantastic presentation about the historical use of sled dogs since the park was created.  In fact in the winter Rangers patrol the park by air & sled (no snow machines).  After all that it was back to the RV.  (Note - the area just outside the Park entrance is just one big tourist strip unfortunately.  We spent no time there.)





Denali National Park facts:

-the National Parks in Alaska are directed to “provide opportunity for rural residents engaged in a subsistence way of life to continue to do so.”
-the first men (four men total) to successfully climb Denali had no climbing experience.  The first man to summit was part Athabaskan.  One of the climbers, dog musher Harry Karstens, became the first Superintendent of the soon to be created McKinley National Park.
-the first seven visitors arrived at the park in 1922, five years after it was created.  You couldn’t drive to the park until 1957.







Early Saturday morning it was back into Denali National Park to catch a tour bus at the Wilderness Access Center.  There are two types of tours – concession tour buses, & visitor transportation system (VTS) shuttle buses.  Concession buses are brown, more comfortable, provide a narration, & provide either a snack or lunch; VTS buses are green, basic school bus comfort, any narration is up to the driver, & no food provided.  Since there is only one road in the park, all buses travel the same route.  BUT the VTS bus fare is one third of the concession bus fareJ!  Hikers who have paid the proper fare, can flag down any VTS bus to see if there are any empty seats to get back to their parked cars and/or campsite.

Once you choose your bus line, you then need to choose your “tour”.  The shortest is a four hour round trip, & the longest is a 12 hour round trip.  So we booked seats on the 9:30 VTS Toklat Shuttle.  Our Toklat Shuttle was a seven hour round trip.  It was fantastic!!! Our driver, Kevin, talked non-stop & we saw everything that most people come to Denali hoping to see.



First we saw the big four mammals – caribou, moose, grizzly & dall sheep.  Seeing all four on a tour is called “a grand slam”.  Not only did we see them, but we saw them up close!

The sheep were on a ridge about quarter mile from the bus, they came down the ridge & popped out right in front of the bus & stood on the road.  The grizzly started about a quarter a mile away & slowly ambled down the hill continuously eating before turning away about 100 feet from the bus.  The caribou was in the middle of the road as we rounded a corner & proceeded to slowly walk in front of the bus for about ten minutes before departing.  The moose were down slope from the road & about 200 feet away; never moving as cow & calf grazed.  We did see others, but they were off in the distance.





We traveled 54 miles of the 92 mile park road & the scenery was fantastic.  Every now & then we caught glimpses of Denali’s south peak & north peak thru the clouds (unfortunately our camera couldn’t capture them clearly).  When you see Denali along with the grand slam, it is called “a clean sweep”.  Very few visitors to Denali National Park accomplish this; in fact, 70% of the park visitors never even see Denali.  That is why they sell t-shirts labeled “I’m one of the 30%”.  A truly fantastic, but exhausting, day!






Saturday, June 27, 2015

23-25JUN15 - Fairbanks, AK

First stop was the Delta Junction, AK, visitor center.  Delta Junction is the official end of the AlCan Highway.  So now we can officially say we have driven the entire length of the AlCan, & took our picture by the official milepost to prove itJ




Next stop on the drive was the Santa Claus House in North Pole, AK.  The town changed their town to North Pole in the hope that manufacturers would move their operations there; so they could say toys made at North Pole.  No industry moved to North Pole, but they now make money off their Post Office & the Santa Claus House.  To get to the Santa Claus House took navigating the RV & Toad thru three traffic circles, immediately adjacent to each other; not easy!  After discovering that Santa was on lunch break at the store, we then navigated back thru the traffic circles & the candy cane street lights to get back on the highway.  Because of the smoke from the forest fires we are unable to see the Alaskan Range or the White Mountains which supposedly border the highway during our entire drive.




Wednesday morning we headed into Fairbanks to the Morris Thompson Cultural Center.  This is an excellent facility that houses representatives from the Fairbanks Visitor Center; Alaska Public Lands Information Center; Gates of the Arctic National Park; Yukon-Charley Rivers National Preserve; & the Tanana Chiefs Conference (supporting the Athabascan culture & language).  The Cultural Center has excellent educational displays & various films shown in the auditorium.  As their website says:

“Since 1998 three separate organizations in Interior Alaska struggled with inadequate space that made it difficult to meet the needs of those they served. The Fairbanks Convention & Visitors Bureau (FCVB) and the Alaska Public Lands Information Center (APLIC) talked of sharing a new facility that would inspire residents and visitors to get out and explore Interior and Arctic Alaska. At the same time, Tanana Chiefs Conference (TCC) dreamed of having a cultural center to preserve Athabascan languages, carry-on traditional knowledge through Elder teachings, and instill confidence and pride in Alaska Native youth. It was Alaska’s Congressional delegation, led by Senator Ted Stevens, who suggested these three entities work together to plan and build a joint facility. To some, it was an unlikely partnership. But leaders from each partner agency rolled up their sleeves and immersed themselves in the business of building, planning and raising funds for construction. Now that we’ve opened, facility operation and maintenance costs are shared. The vision of working together remains strong.”

Definitely worth a few hours of your time, if in the area!





Next stop was Pioneer Park.  As their website states:

“Pioneer Park was built in 1967 as a celebration of the 100th year anniversary of Alaska’s purchase from Russia. The Park opened on May 27, 1967 for the Alaska ‘67 Centennial Exposition. At that time, the park was known as Alaska 67 or A 67 for short. Just a few months after the park opened, its name was changed to Alaskaland. In 2001, the park was renamed Pioneer Park. The change was to reflect the historical nature of the park, because Alaskaland sounded too much like an amusement park. The change was met with resistance, and many locals still refer to the park as Alaskaland—with a staunch group petitioning to change the name back. In its early days, Pioneer Park housed a zoo, and a midway with amusement rides in an area called Bonanzaland.”

Sadly, to us it looks as if the entire establishment is not doing well financially; hopefully it was just a slow day.  The hi-lite for Dan was another steam powered paddle wheeler on display – the NENANA.  The NENANA served 22 villages of less than 3000 people in the 1500 mile round trip.  The NENANA was not in as a good a shape as the KLONDIKE II in Whitehorse, YT.




Last stop of the day was the Tanana Valley Farmers Market.  Quoting from their website:

“The Tanana Valley Farmers Market showcases a wide variety of Alaska Grown produce and plants and Made in Alaska and Silver Hand arts and crafts - all symbols of excellence. It is the oldest established farmers market in Alaska and the only one located in its own permanent building.”



Then it was back to RV to check & get Gumbo.  We then took Gumbo on a walk about downtown & the riverfront.  We noticed that smoke from all the forest fires has some people wearing face masks!  Back to the RV park & dinner at Chena’s Alaskan Grill - Corrie went with peppercorn scallops wrapped in bacon, & Dan went with seafood chowder – excellent!



Trivia – what is a borough in Alaska?

Thursday morning we started our day at the University of Alaska Fairbanks Museum of the North - excellent!

“The University of Alaska Museum of the North is a thriving visitor attraction, a vital component of the University of Alaska Fairbanks and the only research and teaching museum in Alaska. The museum’s research collections – 1.4 million artifacts and specimens – represent millions of years of biological diversity and thousands of years of cultural traditions in the North. The collections are organized into 10 disciplines (archaeology, birds, documentary film, earth sciences, ethnology/history, fine arts, fishes/marine invertebrates, insects, mammals, and plants) and serve as a valuable resource for research on climate change, genetics, contaminants and other issues facing Alaska and the circumpolar North. The museum is also the premier repository for artifacts and specimens collected on public lands in Alaska and a leader in northern natural and cultural history research.”

This is an excellent museum & definitely worth the price of admission.  It started with a special art exhibit called “Vogel 50 x 50”.  The Vogels were two postal employees in New York City, that amassed a phenomenal modern art collection on their modest salaries.  They never sold any, donating all of it to museums before they died.  There is also an extensive artifact collection that traces Alaska from prehistoric times to present day.  Did you know Alaska hosted a half-million military personnel during WWII?





One surprising thing (& sad) we learned, was that Aleut natives were forcibly removed from their villages in the Aleutians & certain coastal areas, & spent WWII in “camps” in southeast Alaska.  When they returned to their villages they found them trashed/looted by Army & US gov’t personnel.  In some cases the village was deliberately burned by the Army, so Japanese invaders could not use it (if they ever invaded, which didn’t happen)!  The Aleuts were only compensated when Japanese Americans who been imprisoned during WWII, voluntarily reached out to the Aleuts & included them in their lawsuit against the USA!


Next we went to the University’s Large Animal Research Station which has small herds of caribou, reindeer & musk ox.

“The Large Animal Research Station, or LARS, was created in 1979 with a major grant from the National Science Foundation Office of Polar Programs. The intent was to establish a colony of muskoxen that would be available for nutritional, physiological and behavioral research, and to provide a location close to the university where research could take place on large, wild ungulates in captivity. In April 1980, 16 muskoxen captured on Nunivak Island were taken to the station after a one-year quarantine. Reindeer, moose and caribou colonies were established within three years, though the moose were subsequently moved to the Alaska Department of Fish and Game Moose Research Center in Soldotna, Alaska.”

We found the presentation very interesting.  It was also refreshing to see animals who although not wild, not being treated as trained show animals, and/or letting the “tourists” hand feed them.
Trivia – what is the only difference between reindeer & caribou?



We then returned to RV; but Dan had one more thing on his sightseeing list?  So he took off to see the Trans Alaska Pipeline up & close & personnel, before calling it a day.  In 1974 the cost to build the pipeline was $800 million, final cost was $8 billion.  All industry money, no asking for tax breaks from state; not like industry does today when they build a new plant.

Friday, June 26, 2015

21/22JUN15 - Tok, AK

Very early Sunday (Father’s Day & the Summer Solstice), 21JUN, we hit the road for Alaska.  The entire drive to the AK border was frost heave after frost heave.  Frost heaves are big problem on the AlCan where it is built on top of permafrost (since ever thing north of Haines Junction, YT, is permafrost; we are talking pretty much the rest of our trip until we get below Haines Junction once again).  And the last fifty miles the road was stripped & nothing but mud, gravel & dust!

The few signs posted said this portion was under construction?  But talking to people in AK later, they say the road has been like this forever, & nothing seems to be actually being done (in spite of the money the USA gave Canada for road improvement discussed in our last BLOG?)!  Now the Toad’s front window will need replacing back in WashingtonL!  Also the entire drive was in a slight haze from AK fires.  Corrie saw a big grizzly right after we left the RV park (no chance for photo).  At the border USA Customs confiscated our peppers (both bell peppers & jalapenos)?

We left earlier than normal because we wanted to drive a longer distance than normal to Tok (pronounced toke, like in “one toke over the line, sweet jesus”), AK.  Hopefully our mail will be their Monday.  After setting up the RV, Dan headed to the RV park’s car wash w/the Toad; the park charges $8 for 1/2 hour! (that’s just the charge for cars, not RVs).  Dan didn’t use the whole half hour, but still took more than twenty minutes.  Next it was off to the Visitor Center & then grocery shopping; before heading back to the RV & skype’ing w/Rebecca & grandkids.  To support the local economy, we had dinner at Fast Eddy’s.  Corrie went with halibut fish & chips, Dan went with grilled halibut; both very good!



Monday after getting our forwarded mail, was sightseeing (what little there is in Tok) –

First stop was the Alaska Public Lands Information Center -

“The Alaska Centers support the appropriate use and enjoyment of Alaska's public lands and resources for information, trip-planning assistance, and resource education. The Alaska Centers are a system of information and education centers that help provide visitors and residents with meaningful, safe, enjoyable experiences on public lands and encourage them to sustain the natural and cultural resources of Alaska. These centers are nationally recognized for providing consistent, high quality services at all four locations.”


Then we stumbled across the HQ for the Tetlin National Wildlife Refuge -

“The Tetlin National Wildlife Refuge is a “must see” on your list of stops in Alaska. If you are driving into the state from the south on the Alaska Highway, you can’t miss it!  As soon as you cross the border, the Refuge boundary is adjacent to the south side of the highway for almost 65 miles. Wildlife viewing, incredible bird watching, camping, fishing, hiking, boating, photography and hunting are all activities that can be enjoyed on the Refuge. The scenic views are splendid as you paddle or hike through the Refuge, as well as from numerous pullouts along the highway. The Refuge Visitor Center provides information, displays and interpretive programs daily, as well as a bookstore operated by the Alaska Geographic. Remote administrative use cabins are available to the public through a reservation process.”


Last stop of the day was Mukluk Land -

“George and Beth Jacobs established Mukluk Land along the Alaska Highway in 1985.  Since then, Mukluk Land has become an Alaskan Landmark.  It’s always been a great place for road weary travelers to stop, relax, and enjoy themselves.  Beth will greet you with a warm welcome and start you on your enjoyable adventure.  George has a real passion for collecting Alaska memorabilia.  A walk through the park is like a life sized history book of Alaska.  The Jacobs also find time to publish the local Tok Newspaper, Mukluk News.  It is a fact that a visit to Alaska is not complete without a stop at Mukluk Land.”

According to jalopnik.com – “Santa's Rocket Ship was built and owned by Lloyd Laster of Tyler, TX. It was one of a fleet of five vehicles (3 Santa's Rockets, a "Rocket Sleigh" and a "Space Sleigh") built from commercial bus chassis for promotional use during the holiday season. The vehicles traveled all over the southern and southwest parts of the country taking Holiday Shoppers on joy rides while making appearances at shopping centers and malls. Each of the Santa's Rocket Ships traveled with a crew of five; a driver, two attendants, a hostess, and of course Santa Claus. Laster started in the 1950s with one Santa's Rocket Ship and had gradually built up the fleet of five Christmas vehicles by the time he retired in 1974.”

Dan paid the entrance fee for Mukluk Land while Corrie waited in the Toad.  The couple running Mukluk Land are extremely friendly & try their hardest to make sure you enjoy yourself.  It was obvious that Mukluk Land has seen better days; but Dan still gives it a thumbs-up, for those that truly love Roadside America!